What a thrill to read this tasting note by esteemed Italian wine writer Roberto Giuliani.
Six years have passed since Luca Ferraro suggested that I taste his first bottling of [Prosecco] Colfòndo. At the time, few outside the region were familiar with this category. It’s actually a traditional-style Prosecco that has been revived thanks to passionate winemakers like Luca and a handful of other small producer who understood how important it was to break away from the challenging and often conflicted market for Prosecco.
Their foresight has paid off. Beyond its importance as part of the Asolo DOCG, Colfòndo has made a name for itself and has captured the attention and sparked the curiosity of countless wine lovers.
In case you aren’t familiar with it, Colfòndo is a “frizzante” sparkling wine (only because its atmospheres of pressure are not high enough to qualify it as “spumante” even though the base wine is the same as that used for Luca’s vintage-dated Prosecco). It’s refermented in the bottle and it ages on its lees even after the fermentation process has been completed.
The wine isn’t disgorged. Instead, it’s sealed with a mushroom cork and a cage. And it’s important to note that it’s not filtered before bottling. Thus, the lees-aged wine retains its rich expression of varietal character.
You can pour it slowly from the bottle so as to avoid having the sediment in the glass. Or you can turn the bottle upside down a few times before opening it so that it becomes cloudy and offers the drinker a new set of tasting notes.
My advice is to drink your first bottle using the first method so as to be able to compare and be rewarded by the two different approaches.
I’ll start by saying that this is a prince among Proseccos, with vibrant acidity and a citrus note that emerges in its youth. But this wine was from the 2013 harvest and was bottled in July 2014 and so it’s had some time to rest. This allows us to taste its thrilling flavors from the get-go. Among other notes: White peach and plum, acacia, aromatic herbs, almond and bread but also nuanced minerality. In the mouth, excellent balance with dense flavors that are accompanied by fresh and ripe fruits. It’s hard not to drink it on its own but ultimately this wine needs to be paired with food. It made me crave for battered zucchine flowers and anchovies but it also made me yearn for classic Neapolitan fritto misto.