Saveur magazine features Prosecco Col Fondo and the Bele Casel winery.
We couldn’t have been more pleased to see that one of the leading wine writers working in the United States today, Zachary Sussman, who’s based in New York City, has penned a feature devoted to Prosecco Col Fondo for Saveur magazine. And we couldn’t have been more thrilled that he includes Asolo, the often omitted township of the Prosecco DOCG. Thank you, Zachary! And thank you, Saveur!
An excerpt of the article follows…
“Most people don’t even recognize this wine as Prosecco,” says Luca Ferraro of Bele Casel winery, an organically farmed family estate in Asolo, Italy, just over an hour’s drive northwest of Venice. Hazy with sediment, the wine certainly doesn’t resemble typical Prosecco, that crisp, clean, quintessentially carefree breed of bubbly. But as Ferraro is quick to point out, this is “the real Prosecco.”
He’s talking about Prosecco col fondo (meaning “with its bottom” or “with sediment”), an unfiltered, lightly effervescent, bottle-fermented expression of Prosecco, produced wit the deposit of spent yeast cells intact. Markedly drier, yeastier, and more savory than conventional versions of the wine, it has been produced in and around the rolling hills of Asolo, which, along with the towns of Valdobbiadne and Conegliano, constitutes the wine’s ancestral home. Up until a few decades ago, if you entered one of the area’s bustling tavernas and ordered “un bicchiere di Prosecco,” the presiding oste (literally, “host” but, in practice, a regional hybrid of tavern-keeper and sommelier) would have served you a glass of col fondo.
Like many of their neighbors, the Ferraros abandoned the category during the 1980s in order to satisfy the modern demand for clear, fresh, tank-fermented bubbles. But in 2008, after tasting a col fondo made by a friend, Ferraro decided to start producing it again…
Please pick up a copy of the October-November issue of Saveur magazine to read the whole article by Zachary Sussman!